Tonga ride, circa 1996

First November, 1996. It was early morning and we could feel the nip in the air as Janta Express reached Kanpur. Passengers pulled out their shawls and blankets from their luggages as it began to get colder. But before we could slip into a cosy sleep inside the train, announcements were made through the barely audible speakers of Indian Railways. "Janta Express won't go further. Passengers travelling to Delhi may deboard the train and take a connecting train."

It was a frustrating experience because most of us had struggled to get tickets during the puja rush from Calcutta. True to its name, Janta Express served the janta (people). It virtually halted at every stations in Bihar (Jharkhand didn't exist then). It was running behind schedule. Finally, when it reached Kanpur, the railway authorities cancelled its route to Delhi.

There was commotion after of the announcement. "Gomti Express from Lucknow will come at 7. All Delhi bound passengers are requested to board the," said a hassled ticket examiner on the platform.

Once the train entered Kanpur junction, there was maddening rush get inside. All because of a seat. Luckily, I managed a window seat.

The train finally reached its destination at 3 pm.

Old Delhi station was as crowded then as it's today. Tongas, three-wheelers, cycle-rickshaws jostled for space.

"Room chahiye, accha room milega," touts, deputed by the local budgeted hotels, chased me. "Nahin chahiye," I said and walked away.

I steered clear of the crowd at the exit and hopped onto the rear seat of a tonga. "Idgah jana hai," I told its owner.

The horse looked fit and healthy. It galloped and pulled away from the station. It was a smooth and wonderful ride. It pierced through the thick station area and then the busiest Sadar Bazar. From the tonga, the view of the sprawling Sadar Bazar, one of Asia's biggest wholesale market, was simply outstanding.

The tonga reached Idgah Road. It was to be my address in Delhi for the next three years.